Bali Surf Travel Diary of a Wannabe Surfer

The travel diary of a wannabe surfer & her wax head boyfriend I met my boyfriend on a plane travelling in WA, he entered Learmouth airport with long blonde hair, blue eyes and a surfboard under arm, the quintessential Aussie bloke you could say. We chatted about the surf, pretending I could – unbeknown to me at the time he would move to Byron Bay and we’d end up dating, at some point, I had to come clean on my “I can’t actually surf” chit chat banter from the first day we met as strangers. What better way to break the news with a “hey let’s go to Bali, you can surf and I’ll learn” on a Mojosurf Island Hopper – and so we did… The Canggu Experience We arrived in bustling Canggu, quite the transformation from my previous visit 8 years or so earlier. The once sleepy coastal town has been transformed into a hive of activity, laneways with cross-fit gyms, healthy cafes balanced with bars & nightlife that dwarf anything you’ve seen before. To peel back the layers of Canggu and truly connect, you need to get the inside scoop from the locals and luckily for us, the Mojosurf guides have the ear of some very dialled in locals giving us dining experiences we wouldn’t have found ourselves. Sure, we found Betelnut Cafe, which lived up to its legendary status. If you’re looking for great food & a different view, head to Nook, settled at the base of a rice field a short scooter ride from Canggu offers a unique experience. These are all part of the tourist track and one of the things I loved about the Mojo experience, they balance little gems we wouldn’t have found with big nights out at Pretty Poison and Deus. It’s all about choosing your own adventure! The Lombok Experience While Canggu was my favourite place for food and nightlife – Lombok was the highlight for waves. I caught my first green wave, I didn’t know what a green wave looked like, but you’ll know it when you’re on it! Lombok was not only great for learners but it also has great waves for intermediate/advanced surfers too. Utopia for me & Jonnie! I headed out on the Mojo boat to Ekas Insides & Jonnie got a ride out to Outsides (I think that was the name of the break). I returned waterlogged, exhausted but exhilarated. when we pulled back into shore and swapped war stories of wipeouts and green wave successes on the balcony of the cliff side accommodation, Surf Gardens. After a quick nap (yes midday nap), we were invited to one of our surf coaches houses for a traditional Indonesian coffee. A stark contrast to the conveniences of modern day life at home, a humble abode a tight space but full of love. His wife brewed the coffee – a sharp, bitter and hot tasting coffee almost burnt my tongue. We learnt new Indonesian phases from the Sasak dialect, different from the Sumbawa language spoken in the majority of Bali. Surfer riding a wave at Nusa Lembongan

With 2 days in Lombok, my surfing is really starting to take off, well I think it is to the outside world I’m sure it looks like wipeout after wipeout. But by now I’m starting to feel the energy of the wave, learning its all about timing and shifting weight in one beautiful poetic motion of movement. Paddle too hard or not enough, shift your weight slightly forward or too far back, means the difference between missing or wiping out on what could have been the wave of the day. Get it right and the feeling of exhilaration beams from deep within you. Mojosurf outrigger boat in Lombok

The Nusa Lembongan Experience My favourite location for exploring the ocean beneath the waves, Nusa Lembongan offers some of the most beautiful marine life I’ve seen, not to mention the accom is beautiful. Infinity pool overlooking the ocean on Nusa Lembongan

Infinity pool overlooking the ocean on Nusa Lembongan

Right now every muscle in my body is aching, I’m getting daily (sometimes twice daily) messages to keep me on the board and in the water. So when our guide says we’re heading diving for the day my body celebrates, one more turn of my shoulders and I’m afraid they might actually seize up! We head out on a boat that looks and is named after one VERY famous fish, Nemo, in search of well Nemo, also known as the elusive Clown Fish. I was secretly excited to hopefully swim with a Manter Ray, also known as Mr. Ray. Snorkeller diving over a reef at Nusa Lembongan

Snorkeller diving over a reef at Nusa Lembongan

An abundance of colourful fish, coral and indeed Mater Rays came to hang with us today, sadly an abundance of ocean plastics was too obvious as well. Another reason I love the Mojosurf crew, their guides are proactive in raising awareness and educating travellers and their tour partners on the impact plastics have on the ocean. They also organise beach cleanups that involve locals and travellers alike trying to help solve the problem. Individual impact united can create global movements for change. On the final day, we returned to Mojosurf camp in Canguu and it is, without a doubt, one of the best hostels I’ve stayed in. I love vintage TV check out Melrose Place get through one ep. and you’ll think your onset with Heather Locklear. 😉 Hot Tips:

Share accommodation is great – but we upgraded to have our own room and totally recommend it
Try and minimise your plastic consumption while travelling Nemo & his mates will love you for it.
Suits all travellers on all budgets.